From a Scottish Island - Part 2
Last week we explored the north and west of Arran. Today we travel to the east and south. Scotland in Miniature - week 2.
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My name is Debbie. I have been writing here on Substack since September 2023 sharing snippets of my life as I continue to explore what it means to live slowly and simply. If you are curious and want to learn more why not subscribe today?
I live in the heart of England, in a small village in the south of Leicestershire. I am wife to Anthony and cat mum to our seven year old black panther called Thomas. If you want to read more click HERE
Hello my friend
Two weeks after our return, my head and heart are still on the Isle of Arran, a beautiful island just off the west coast of Scotland. An island steeped in history, spirituality and stunning scenery. An island unspoiled by tourism, the wild untamed natural beauty of the west and a more populous east. Arran has everything one could wish for. Craving solitude? Just head a few miles out of the main villages of Brodick, Lamlash and Whiting Bay or the west coast. Needing the company of others, then the aforementioned villages with their cafes and shops should satisfy.
Last week I wrote about our first amazing week on Arran. Taking in the north and west coast where we visited Brodick castle, Fairy Dell near Lochranza, the standing stones and stone circles of Machrie moor, and the Kings Caves.
You can read the publication here.
From a Scottish Island - Part 1
Read about our first week here where we travelled to the north and west, visiting Brodick, Lochranza, Machrie Moor standing stones and the Kings Caves.
We left you last week at our overnight park up in Brodick so that we could do a food re-stock.
We were treated to an amazing sky over the Goatfell mountain range that night, the sun piercing through the clouds casting dramatic shadows over the mountains.
Friday 25th July - Day 7 - Lamlash and The Holy Isle
Departing Brodick in the morning after our food re-stock we headed south towards Lamlash as today we would sail across to the spiritual Holy Isle.
Lamlash is a beautiful village that lies just three miles south of Brodick. A quaint village and home to the tiny ferry that transports visitors to the Holy Isle. We arrived in plenty of time to explore the village before our crossing. Enough time to visit the delightful shop Island Porcelain which I discovered in a leaflet I’d read. The shop sells hand made ornamental figurines, inspired by wildlife found on Arran such as seals, red squirrels and deer as well as other handmade delights such as infused glass pieces.
The lovely lady serving us spoke about the crafts and how they made the figurines. She enquired as to whether I was a crafter, to which I replied that I was and we started chatting about crafts in general.
We also spoke about Arran and she asked what we thought about the island. Asking if we would ever consider moving here, she said and I quote “If you come back to Arran for five years in succession you will move here”. Giving it some thought I think she could be right!
Time to board the ferry over to the Holy Isle.
The small ferry, holding just ten people takes around 15 minutes to cross to the island, with a return journey four hours later.
On arrival at the Holy Isle our guide (aka the skipper) gave us an informative talk about life on the island and the many points of interest for us to discover.
The Holy Isle is under the ownership of the Samyé Ling Buddhist Community, who belong to the Kagyu school of Tibetan Buddhism. Upon arrival on the island one sees a white building which is the Centre for World Peace and Health where one can attend courses and retreats. The approach from the ferry jetty is decorated with Tibetan flags.
Whilst there are no facilities on the island, there are numerous things to explore. Either to take the path to the highest point on the island, Mullach Mòr, with stunning views across the Firth of Clyde on a clear day, or walk along the coastal path on the west side of the island. The path leads to the Pill Rock lighthouse, the Northern Lighthouse Boards first square lighthouse, which is at the southern end of the island.
The eastern side of the island is a nature reserve with wild Eriskay ponies, Saanen goats, Soay sheep and the land dedicated to the replanting of native trees. This side is not accessible to visitors.
We chose the latter, an interesting walk along the almost 2 mile coastal path.
The island has a long history as a sacred site. Just a short walk from the ferry jetty along the coastal path is the hermit cave of 6th century monk St Molaise and beyond that, a holy spring which is said to have healing properties. It is advised not to drink the water, but one can dab some on our skin.
Walking further along the path are several Tibetan Buddhist rock paintings.
Throughout the world at different times people have carved religious images on rocks. Both Scotland and Tibet are no exception to this. In Tibet it is traditional to carve and paint depictions of the Buddha and saints on rocks and cliffs along pilgrimage routes and at holy places, to remind and inspire everyone who passes of the spiritual vision towards which to strive.
A Tibetan monk living in Samye Ling has carved several figures on the rocks along the path to the south end of the island, depicting key historical figures of the Kagyu Lineage and other significant images. They are carved and painted according to the traditional proportions and colours of Tibetan art.Source: Buddhism on Holy Isle | HolyIsle.org
At the southern end of the island one will find the gated entrance to the Inner Light Tibetan retreat, where a community of nuns are undertaking three year retreats.
Along the route we spotted several soay sheep on the shoreline and eriskay ponies at the far end of the island but no goats found.
Four hours on the tranquil spiritual isle, four short but precious hours that will remain with me for the longest time. There is something so special about this place, it’s hard to put a finger on it, it’s a feeling rather than a physical presence.
We found a stunning park up for that night. Just north east of Lamlash along a quiet road we discovered a small spot, enough room for three vans, directly opposite the northern tip of the Holy Isle, and close to a footpath that would take us along part of the Arran coastal way via the beach.
Saturday 26th July - Day 8 - Whiting Bay and the next campsite
After an incredibly peaceful night of blissful sleep and a gentle wake up. Ant took his bike off for a ride along one of Arrans lesser travelled roads whilst I stayed behind for some quiet time of meditation, journaling and reflection at the van, watching the water glisten like sparkling crystals in the morning sunlight.
Later on we will be heading to our next campsite at Seal Shore, but firstly stopping at Arran’s third largest village Whiting Bay. A lovely tranquil village nestled along a beautiful beach, and a creative haven.
Whiting Bay has a beautiful art gallery, displaying the work of local artists and artists from other parts of Scotland. The gallery currently shows an incredible collection of work from around 80 creators.
Whiting Bay also plays host to a gorgeous little arts and crafts supplies shop which of course I had to visit. Coming away with a hand spun ball of wool from a sheep named Edouard who lives in Kildonan just around the coast, and a cross stitch of the Arran map. I was never leaving the shop empty handed was I? 😊
Our journey continued along the coast southwards towards Kildonan and the Seal Shore campsite where we would hang out for few days.
Sunday 27th to Tuesday 29th July - Days 9-11 - Seal Shore
Four nights and three days to relax in the serenity of Seal Shore. Walks along the beach, exploration, people and island watching, and generally relax. Thankfully due to the sea breeze, the midges stayed away.
Seal Shore campsite sits right on the beach of the Kildonan shoreline, with stunning views over to Pladda and Ailsa Craig.
Ailsa Craig is known for its microgranite which was quarried for centuries to make curling stones. The island is uninhabited now except for a variety of bird species, including puffins, guillemots and gannets.
On our first full day at Seal Shore we went in search of the famous dinosaur footprint, which is only visible at low tide about a mile along the coast from the campsite. We were incredibly lucky to find the footprint within a few minutes of beginning our search around the rock platform a few meters out from the small car park.
The footprint was left by a giant reptile that roamed the island of Arran some 240 million years ago. It’s name Chirotherium translates as ‘hand‐beast’, because the tracks look like giant human hand prints.
Whilst we were stationery for a few days Ant took the opportunity to explore the southern corner of Arran on his bike. I on the other-hand chose to spend quiet time at the site, doing what I love best, reading, journaling, and work on a cross-stitch I had brought along with me. A Scotland themed bookmark, showing a highland cow, a thistle, bagpipes, the Scotland flag and a stag.
One afternoon we observed a wind-surfer completing a marathon five hour surfing session. Incredible stamina for sure and demonstrating a certain resilience. The constant falls and getting back on the board showing a determination I dare say some of us could learn from 🖐.
Wednesday 30th July - Day 12 - a waterfall, a library and more whisky
Our departure from Seal Shore would first see us visit the Eas Mor waterfall and library. The route up to the waterfall and library begins at the café which is just beyond the road leading up from the campsite. It is a tough but exhilarating forest walk with several stunning viewpoints on the way up. The last stop before reaching the top shows us a dramatic view of the single, long plume of water that dives down the cliff face.
Just a short walk further on, and entering the “sacred and magical lands” according to the sign on a fallen tree across the path above us, we came across the hidden library.
Eas Mor Ecology library, also known as the Library in the Woods, is lined with drawings and messages left by visitors. The library is covered floor to ceiling with hundreds upon hundreds of creations. Entering the library is one of those wow moments. I had seen the library on several YouTube videos, but none could prepare me for seeing it in reality. There are actual books in the library but most are hidden by the depth of the messages pinned to every surface.
Spending some time looking at the works of art and messages left by others I decided to create my own to grace the walls for years to come. If you are on Arran and visit the library, look up as you enter, you may just spot my Substack logo there.
After a sneaky cappuccino, and rhubarb and custard cake in the café at the bottom we moved on to our next destination, the Lagg Distillery, sister of Lochranza distillery. Just a quick stop at this one for Ant to buy a peaty whisky to go with the Lochranza bottle he bought last week.
Our next park up was at a Forestry commission site near Kilpatrick that was slightly uphill, affording us a stunning view over the bay towards Kintyre.
Thursday 31st July - Day 13 - last full day on the west.
After a late departure from the park up following a slow relaxed morning, we headed north once more to a tiny village called Catacol where a row of houses stand, known as the Twelve Apostles. Twelve houses and thirteen chimneys, who gets to have two?
The houses were built to provide homes for those people cleared from the surrounding countryside, when much of the inland was claimed for deer hunting.
For the final park up on the west coast we headed back to our favourite spot just south of the Dougarie boat house. Nothing to do except relax, reflect on a wonderful two weeks and enjoy the amazing sky as the sun started to set over Kintyre.
Friday 1st August - Day 14 - the final day
Before heading back over to the east coast via The String we stopped off at Blackwaterfoot for some beach time taking advantage of the tide being out. A lovely stretch of the legs along a beautiful beach. Arran is home to some incredible beaches but the one at Blackwaterfoot is stunning.
A brief stop at the butchers in Blackwaterfoot to pick up some haggis to take home and then onwards back to Brodick for our final night before catching the first ferry back to the mainland and a seven hour journey home.
Saturday 2nd August - Day 15 - homeward bound
Two fabulous and life changing weeks on a stunning island and waking to a glorious sun rise on our last morning, we bid a sad farewell.
Thank you Arran, it has been a blast and you have been a wonderful host. We will definitely be back one day in the future I am sure.
Thank you for reading about our recent trip to the incredible Isle of Arran. If you enjoyed this you may be interested in the following.
In case you missed it, I started my declutter series in March. A month by month gentle process of clearing our homes and minds. I would love you to join us on this journey of discovery in Slow and Gentle Decluttering
Decluttering has been instrumental to us in finding a simple and slower path. Maybe it can for you too. Make sure you are subscribed so that you receive the next in the series on Sunday …..
Until next time.
Debbie xx
I’ve started posting regularly again on Instagram. You can find me here.
I've been thinking of visiting Scotland, maybe next year, so this is great for ideas! That library looks pretty amazing, what a discovery!
What a beautiful place, I am so thankful to you for sharing your trip with us. I can see why your heart is still there - absolutely beautiful. 🙏