From a Scottish Island - Part 1
A piece of my heart remains on the Isle of Arran - Scotland in Miniature - week 1.
A very warm welcome to A Simple Living Journal. I am pleased you are here. Make yourself a drink and cosy up in your favourite chair.
My name is Debbie. I have been writing here on Substack since September 2023 sharing snippets of my life as I continue to explore what it means to live slowly and simply. If you are curious and want to learn more why not subscribe today?
I live in the heart of England, in a small village in the south of Leicestershire. I am wife to Anthony and cat mum to our seven year old black panther called Thomas. If you want to read more click HERE
Hello my friend
I’ve been back a week, but my head is still immersed in the beautiful serenity that is the Isle of Arran. An island unspoiled by tourism. One main road travelling the circumference of the island, approximately 56 miles, and one road through the middle known as The String. The wild untamed beauty of the west where few cars can be seen, and the more populous east. Arran has it all and really captured my heart.
Arran’s main villages can be found on the east of the island, Brodick, the largest of them all, from where the ferry comes in from the mainland and perhaps the most “touristy” of all, Lamlash just a few miles south and Whiting Bay. A few smaller villages found dotted around the island, Lochranza on the northern edge, Catacol, Pirnmill and Blackwaterfoot on the west side of Arran.
Like the mainland, Arran’s mountain range can be found in the north, with its highest mountain, Goatfell at 874mtrs, and towards the south, slightly flatter terrain with its rolling hills. Hence why Arran is called Scotland in Miniature
I feel like there is so much to tell you about, so todays piece will be written in diary format, day by day and I will be splitting this publication into two parts.
Welcome to week 1.
Friday 18th July - We’re on our way.
The start of our two week vacation to the Isle of Arran would begin as any other, with the long drive up the M6 to the border and continuing on as the M74 to our favourite services Cairn Lodge.
As is normal for motorway services Cairn Lodge is expensive, but the food is nice quality and delicious. With a few savoury treats bought, our journey continued across to the west towards Ardrossan where we would park up for the night ready for our crossing on the first ferry in the morning.
The long-stay car park at the ferry terminal, although basic with no facilities, was just perfect for the night. Commonly used by day visitors to Arran, at just £5 for 24 hours. It was secure too, closing at 10pm and re-opening at 6am just in time for checking in and boarding the 7am ferry.
We were treated to a spectacular sunset whilst watching the last ferry of the day arriving back from Arran, which tomorrow would become our ride out.
Saturday 19th July - Day 1 - We arrived
And we’re on our way. The ferry crossing was exciting, with views of Arran getting closer and in little under an hour, at 8am, we were in Brodick.
Brodick is geared up for the tourists in that there is plenty of parking on the seafront with a few shops, cafes and even a miniature golf course. Brodick also has Arran’s main food shop too.
We parked up and did a food shop, enough to last a week, or as much as we could fit in the van fridge and cupboards.
Fed and watered with breakfast we took a stroll along Brodick’s sea front heading south on Fisherman’s walk, via a sandy beach and a raised wooden walkway through marshland. With the stunning Goatfell range in full view, it was a spectacular start to the holiday.
Our first park up was a lovely off road site just a few miles south of a picturesque and busy Corrie. We found ourselves alone at the park up, with space for up to three or four vans, and amazing views across Brodick Bay and a seal basking in the warmth of a rock in the shallow waters of low tide.
The solitude was very welcome, sitting on the wooden bench conveniently situated near our van. Soaking up the sun, watching the boats sailing past and quietly reading and adding notes to my journal.
We were joined by a lone traveller later on who kindly asked if we would mind them being there. No of course not, more than enough room for us all.
Sunday 20th July - Day 2 - Brodick Castle
After the most perfect night, a peaceful sleep after gently nodding off to the sound of the breeze and gentle waves hitting the rocks, we woke to clear skies and the warmth of the sun. I will never forget that first cup of tea sitting on the bench listening to the island waking up. Arran is by far the quietest place we have visited with little traffic noise out of the main villages. I felt a real sense of freedom. Free from noise, free from the rush culture and fast pace. I felt like I’d arrived home, where I belong.
After a slow start and van reset we headed off to Brodick Castle.
Brodick Castle, just a couple of miles from the town of Brodick, is set against a backdrop of the towering Goatfell and surrounded by almost 3,000 hectares of gardens, country park and stunning scenery.
Home to the Duke and Duchess of Montrose until 1957, the castle has a history that spans over 800 years. Brodick Castle’s grounds include beautiful formal gardens and manicured terraced lawns, with wildflower meadows, woodland trails and waterfalls.
We spent many hours exploring the grounds of the castle. Discovering the squirrel hide and it’s playful red squirrels, a Bavarian summer house, with a ceiling and walls constructed of pinecones, bark and twigs. So intricate in its detail. Built in 1845, the Bavarian summerhouse is the only survivor of four similar structures that once graced the woodland of the castle. It was constructed in a Bavarian style as a wedding present for Princess Marie of Baden.
There were many walkways around the grounds surrounded by rhododendrons. In gorgeous shades of blue, I was in awe of their beauty. There are three national collections of rhododendrons in Brodick’s care.
Imagine my delight in finding a quiet hidden paradise within the woodland set up for forest bathing. Two wooden constructed beds shaped perfectly to support ones back, just begging to be tried, which of course we did. They were situated in a part of the woodland where there was no sound, not even the chirp of a bird, just the occasional whisper of a breeze from the canopy of leaves overhead.
Heading back towards the Castle we discovered the Silver garden. The garden features several reflective pillars which were inspired by the Isle of Arran’s Neolithic Machrie Moor Standing Stones on the west coast of the isle.
Moving on.
After a very enjoyable visit to Brodick Castle gardens we made our way to our first campsite of the holiday for three nights, but stopping first to take in the views over the mountain pass that descends down towards Lochranza. A stunning pass of just a few short miles, but spectacular views to be enjoyed.
Monday 21st to Tuesday 22nd July - Days 3-4 - Lochranza
Our first site was at Lochranza on the north-west tip of Arran, situated slightly inland of the coast (but only a short walk from), next to one of seven golf courses on Arran. It is said that wild deer and golden eagles can be spotted from Lochranza. We didn’t spot any eagles, but we did see one deer on the other side of the golf course on our arrival last night. To make up for the lack of wildlife, however, we did see a LOT of midges. Because of the absence of breeze there, the midges were out in force.
On our first full day at Lochranza we took in the coastal walk to Fairy Dell, said to be the gateway to the fairies. With stunning views across the bay to Lochranza and spotting the odd seal or two, the coastal path follows a nice low level route for about a mile and half to the fairy dell.
The fairy dell is a beautiful whitewashed cottage seemingly in the middle of nowhere, sitting among a lovely idyllic meadow, facing the sea. What a beautiful place to stay for some quiet time.
If one continues on along the coastal path, this forms part of the Arran Coastal way, a path that circles the entire island which is popular amongst walkers. Instead we turned back, heading up and over the cliff path back to Lochranza. We saw what can only be described as the tiniest car ferry arriving at the ferry terminal on our walk back. It operates between Lochranza and Kintyre and one of only two ways of getting off the island - although I cannot think of a valid reason why you would want to, to be honest!
No visit to Scotland is ever complete without a visit to a distillery. Whether one likes whiskey or not, a distillery tour is always fascinating. Although not a big drinker now, I do enjoy a wee dram or two of the non peaty stuff when in Scotland. I discovered a tot of whiskey goes quite nicely in my evening cup of hot chocolate too!
Wednesday 23rd July - Day 5 - Lochranza Castle, a Sandwich and Machrie Moor Standing Stones
On our departure day we pottered around Lochranza castle, a prominent feature of the small village. The castle dates to the 13th century when it was owned by the MacSweens. It is believed that Robert the Bruce landed at Lochranza in 1306 on his return from Ireland to claim the Scottish throne. By 1371 the castle was the property of Robert II. It is thought that at this time it was used as a royal hunting lodge.
When in Lochranza, it is essential to visit the Sandwich Station which is situated opposite the ferry terminal. The best made to order sandwiches I’ve ever tasted. I had mackerel in a focaccia bread. Delicious.
Onwards to Machrie Moor.
After a short walk from the carpark over moorlands, passing some hairless highland coo’s (that was weird to see), we arrived at the first stone circle. Originally built from timber some 4500 years ago, they were replaced by stone around 500 years later.
One such circle has a double ring of stones, known as Fingal’s Cauldron Seat. There are a number of folk stories around Fingal’s Cauldron Seat. According to Gaelic legend the warrior giant, Fingal, ate from a cauldron that was supported by the inner ring of stones, and used the stone with a hole through it to tether his dog. Another tale spoke of the stone being the home of a fairy who could be appeased by pouring milk through the hole!
There are six stone circles in all on Machrie Moor, each one as impressive as the next. Standing next to them it was near on impossible to understand the magnitude of their having stood for nearly 4500 years.
Our park up for the night was one we spotted on our drive down to Machrie Moor. It was off the “main” road, down a small track and right on the edge of the stone/sand beach. Possibly our favourite park up of the two weeks with a slight breeze so keeping the midges away and a stunning view across to a slightly misty Kintyre. I don’t mind admitting to humming a little tune we all know 😂- and for those of you too young to know then here it is for you to enjoy … or not (sorry) 😂.
I was reminded of a video that my dad filmed, of my mum singing Mull of Kintyre whilst actually on the southernmost point of Kintyre many years ago.
Thursday 24th July - Day 6 - Kings Cave
Today we are visiting Kings Cave, just slightly north of Blackwaterfoot, but first of all a stop off at the Old Byre to visit the two cute little shops and their café, Café Thyme. A cappuccino and slice of lemon drizzle cake later, appetites satisfied we headed on out.
The shore has lots of little caves dotted around the cliffs. Many are overgrown now but would have provided shelter for those in need many years ago.
The most well known caves on Arran are on the West coast just north of Blackwaterfoot known as Kings Caves. Kings cave is identified as having a large metal gate at the entrance. The gate is open so one can go inside and look around. We can see several ancient markings on the cave walls.
The main cave is said to be where Robert the Bruce sought refuge after being defeated in his attempt to claim the throne. There he watched a spider try and fail to connect its silken thread to the cave wall to make a web. Repeatedly the spider tried and failed to attach its thread, but it didn't give up, and after many attempts, finally succeeded.
Inspired by the spider's refusal to give up, Bruce vowed to try again to take the throne. After years of struggle, his efforts led to success and he claimed Scotland.
The cave known as King’s cave was previously named Fingal’s cave, after Fionn mac Cumhaill, a figure in Irish mythology.
The Caves can be accessed either from Blackwaterfoot along a coastal path or via the forestry car park near Machrie, which is a circular route. We chose the latter which took us around the edge of a woodland before reaching the cliffs of the coastline. A scramble down a steep rocky gully brought us out on the beach where the caves came into view a short walk down. I highly recommend wearing proper walking boots and use of a walking stick for balance for this walk. The route back was slightly easier, along a softer path up and along the cliff top with stunning views and through the woodland back to the carpark.
We headed back to Brodick for our next nights park up, and to stock up on food for the next half of our vacation.
This seems like to perfect place to pause this fabulous journey through the Isle of Arran’s many wonders.
Thank you for coming with me. I’ll see you next week for part two where we visit Lamlash and the Holy Isle, admire the paintings in the gallery and explore the beach at Whiting Bay, look for Dinosaur prints near Seal Shore and more.
In case you missed it, I started my declutter series in March. A month by month gentle process of clearing our homes and minds. I would love you to join us on this journey of discovery in Slow and Gentle Decluttering
Decluttering has been instrumental to us in finding a simple and slower path. Maybe it can for you too. Make sure you are subscribed so that you receive the next in the series on Sunday …..
If you enjoyed todays newsletter you may be interested in reading more of our Scotland adventures -
Until next time.
Debbie xx
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Just gorgeous 🥰 thank you for sharing this with us 🙏 I'm living vicariously through you !
Lovely photos and story! Thanks so much for sharing them. I love Scotland and its haunting tales and amazing scenery.